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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 10:59 am 
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Has anyone written an article on this topic, I seen some tips and warnings around over restored etc.

Looking for some guidelines as this is the owner preference, my only past experience is with classic cars something restored from an ID plate is not a Ferrari, something re-chromed and repainted is nice but has zero patina and has lost a lot of history.

I would like to save anything I get and the advice seems to be scotchbright , WD40 , a good Leather care food and baby oil.

Some mention autosolve - not sure if that is a good idea ?

Keep well away from grinders, belt sanders and other mechanical devices.

Just apply TLC.

The Only Fools and Horses reference to Trigger having the same broom for 25 years springs to mind, only 3 new heads and two handles !!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 3:57 pm 
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Hi Scott , i think everybody has there own preferences , mines is autosol which doesnt affect the Patina on a blade .0000 wire wool
.,then a wipe down with mineral oil .
Some i use Renaissance wax on. Preserves the blade from rust and acidic finger prints .
I really enjoy this cleaning process , sometimes i tapke a couple days on a blade .
I kinda hate it when a pristine one shows up with no work to do lol :roll:
Highlander


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 8:07 pm 
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My two pennies here then.
It very much depends on the individual Kukri. I would always want to stabilise it. Remove active rust and wood worm.
Patina takes years to come and seconds to remove so slowly slowly is always a good way to start.
I've used autosol and very fine wire wool. Nice and gentle.
I find myself doing less and less as I learn.
If in doubt post photos of before and ask the forum.

Captain

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PARTING THE CLOUDS SEEKING THE WAY
Everyone is entitled to their own opinions not their own facts


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 9:46 pm 
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One other question on putting an edge on the blade, what would you recommend ?

If you do not plan to use it and display them, would you leave if as is or just sharpen to show what it was capable of when it was used (prove it has and can old an edge) ?

If you plan to use them, would you recommend wet stones (working down the grades), oil stone (which is how I tend to sharpen chiseles) or some other method ?

Thanks,
Scott.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 9:59 pm 
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Another cleaning method I use, is for 'rust scabs', those, hopefully, small areas of rust that project from the surface of the blade. I use an old jack knife, on which I keep a sharp tip. This I use to carefully pick off the nasty stuff prior to my Scotchbrite/WD40 treatment. This particular knife blade is, 99% of the time, softer than the Kukri blade and always harder than the rust. Result is rust 0, me 1.
If one has light surface rust on a nice chrome finish tourist blade, then full use can be made of a brass 'Hush Puppy' wire brush, again, brass being softer than the chrome, harder than the rust; alternatively, just throw the tourist blade away.....


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2017 5:56 pm 
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Has anyone tried using the other renaissance products during the restoration process, they also make renaissance metal de-corroded and prelim non-scratch paste designed to remove oxidation ?

I found these products on a site www.conservation-resources.co.uk, was going to order some and test them out.

It also mentions the wax is good for leather, has anyone tried that?

Scott.

P.S If you celebrate it Happy Thanksgiving.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2017 9:05 pm 
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Hi Scott ive used the wax on leather .but i think good old boot polish or Dubbin do the job and less expensive ., as Captain said sometimes less is more :roll:
Highlander


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 4:13 pm 
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My order arrived in less than 24 hours - I have a very rusty old tourist Kukri I will test to see how this works out.

Pictures of the pre-Lim and de-corroder below just as an FYI.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 9:52 pm 
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Many thanks for the responses, didn’t get around to trying the decorroder but did try the wax on an old Gladstone bag which seemed to work well and didn’t change the colour at all.

Hopefully get around to testing the decorroder later in the week.

Thanks again,
Scott.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:00 pm 
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Location: England.
What are the actual ingredients in each product?

Spiral


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 10:32 pm 
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Not sure the FAQ mentions no silicon, this is manufactors site FAQ http://picreator.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions-faqs/ seems it’s a bit like coke you know what’s not in it. The cans have no contents on them.

According to Wikipedia

Wax contains crude oil
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renaissance_Wax

I’ve tried getting to the Sword forum but the Google link sends me to some weird site and I can’t read the posts. If I use a windows 10 machine defender blocks the Sword forum as well as it’s reported a number of phishing attacks from it.

I did find this useful link, some good tips as well http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=12552

I think it’s a case of try it and see on something first, but it does what it says on the tin - removes rust but proceed with caution.

Cheers,
Scott.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 10:42 pm 
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I cant be bothered to search for it myself, but USA regulations, mean it will be listed somewhere in case a child eats it.... Health and safety etc..

Spiral


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 3:42 am 
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The renaissance wax looks great. At the moment, I'm a little strapped for cash, and it's a bit of an expensive pick-up in Australia.

Is there anything cheaper that works in a similar way that I could use to stabilise the metal?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 4:29 pm 
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Hey, sorry to bump!

Does anyone know if you can use something different to 're-seal' the metal once the cosmoline is removed?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 5:57 pm 
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Regular baby oiling helps, protect the steel....You need to check regularly though...

Or You might be able to buy some black military surplus cosmoline...

That works, but sets hard over the years... Then you need acetone to strip it... :lol:


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