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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 4:29 pm 
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Before I begin with the instructions I would like to make two requests and two suggestions.
Could those of you with metalworking experience review my procedures and make recommendations for improvement? My methods got the job done but your technical knowledge might make the task easier. I would also like to know from you what alloys of steel and brass are the most malleable, what those alloys are called, and where to get them in sheet stock.
While it is possible to draw the template with conventional drafting tools, a good computerized drawing program like illustrator will make life much easier (even the program Quark might do). I also suggest that those of you (like me) who have no metalworking experience make a few aluminum mock-ups to get the hang of it (soda cans work well or you can get some scrap from an aluminum siding contractor) before committing to brass or steel.

The khukeri ferrule must encompass two circumferences of unequal size (the blade and the hilt). In order to do this and have the circle segments on either side of the ferrule align properly on the blade and hilt, the pattern must be a shallow V because the center lines of the two flat parts of the segments that lie against the blade must be closer together than the center lines of the curved parts of those two segments that center on the hilt. I know this may be a bit unclear right now but the directions below and the accompanying illustrations will clarify matters. By the way, some of the construction principles used for khukeri ferrules also apply to choora, khyber knives, and some pesh kabz.

MAKING THE TEMPLATE

1) First measure the circumference of the hilt (I used a piece of string) and establish the width of the ferrule to your taste. (A shallow ferrule will probably be easier to make.) Those dimensions will become the rectangle labeled A on the Components chart. The rectangle can be roughly drawn. It is for reference only and will not be used to make the template.

2) Measure the thickness of the blade edge where it will meet the ferrule (it's probably about 1/16") and draw a line to that length. Draw two 22.5 degree angled lines down from that. Add a base line so that the height of trapezoid equals the height of A. The resultant shape is the equilateral trapezoid B1 in the components chart.

3) Measure the thickness of the blade spine where it will meet the ferrule and draw a line to that length. Draw one 22.5 degree angled line and one right angle line down from that. Add a base line so that the height of trapezoid equals the height of A. The resultant shape is the right angled trapezoid C1 in the components chart. You will need two of these shapes. One with the right angle on the left and one with the right angle to the right. The line down the center of C1 indicates where the two spine shapes will overlap and be soldered together

4) Take the combined measurements of the bases of B1 and both overlapped C1s as shown in BC and subtract that from the length of A. The resultant measure will be D.

5) Divide D in half and use a fender washer to draw the circle segment as shown on E. Check the flat part of the circle segment against the side of the blade. It should extend the full width of the base of the blade. You will need two E pieces. These are the sides of the ferrule.

6) When you assemble all the pieces you will get the shape called Shallow V.

7) Extend the circle segments as shown on the yellow Completed Template The extensions don't have to be as deep as shown on the Completed Template because almost all of that metal will be cut away. However the extensions do have to be as wide as the circle segment because the two remnants of the extensions that are left will become the flanges that flank the blade on all khukeri ferrules. These extensions serve two purposes as you will see in construction details below.

Cool Securely paste the completed template on the piece of metal. The surface with the completed template on it will become the INSIDE of the ferrule. Cut out the pattern as indicated by the yellow areas. (I used heavy duty shears for the aluminum mock-ups and a dremel for the actual .0125 brass ferrule.)

CONSTRUCTION

1a) Place the fender washer from #5 above on one of the template circle segments and clamp the assemblage in a vise so that the entire circle segment is above the vise jaws. The circle segment extensions mentioned in #7 above will provide the clamping point. Hammer around the fender washer on what will be the outside of the ferrule. You are not trying to bend the metal over the washer per se but it is critical to establish a sharp delineation of the circle segment on the outside of the ferrule. Repeat the operation on the other circle segment.

2a) Take the fender washer and ferrule out of the vise and reclamp the fender washer to the circle segment template with a pair of visegrips. Clamp a mandrel that is roughly shaped like the side of the hilt (I used some iron water pipe scrap) into the vise. Begin to hammer the edge of the ferrule to shape around the mandrel. Check your progress against the side of the hilt. Repeat the operation on the other side.

3a) Bend the circle segment flanges outward. They will serve to hold the circle segments flat during the rest of the construction operations. It helps to have a pair of sheet metal vise grips for this task.

4a) Clamp a vise grip on the 22.5 degree angle of the spine segment and bend it. This is a sharp break, not a curve. Repeat the operation on the other spine segment.

5a) Clamp a smaller mandrel that is shaped roughly like the bottom of the hilt in the vise and bend the blade edge segment around it. The oval opening that will fit the hilt is now complete.

6a) Using a needle nosed vise grip, clamp the two spine segments together so that they overlap as mentioned in #3 above. Check your work against the hilt and adjust as needed. You can squeeze the ferrule slightly in the vise if necessary to get it longer and narrower or broader and fatter.

7a) With the spine segments clamped together with the needle nosed vise grips, solder the overlapping segments together.

8a) At this point the base of the ferrule will slightly uneven. A small amount of file work will serve to rectify that problem.

9a) File down the top part of the spine segment that is standing proud. (It's called a scarf joint.). Cut off the circle segment extensions so only the flanges remain. That's it, you're done.
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kukri ferrulefabrication template.jpg
kukri ferrulefabrication template.jpg [ 173 KiB | Viewed 3891 times ]

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kukri ferrulefabpic.jpg
kukri ferrulefabpic.jpg [ 314.54 KiB | Viewed 3892 times ]

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